I received a good question via email today.
It concerns taking in a garment where the customer has lost a lot of weight.
Here is the question I received from a reader:
“I need to alter scrub jackets for a woman who lost 22 pounds after she purchased them. They are embroidered with the dental clinic she works for, so she can’t return them. These jackets have snaps in the front, they aren’t pullover tops. They are too wide in the shoulders, the sleeves are too long and too big around. My concern is is that she is very large busted. They have set in sleeves. So, my question is, should I remove the sleeves, shorten the shoulder seam, reattach the sleeves, cut off the length needed to shorten the sleeves from the bottom of the sleeve (they have ribbing cuffs) and reattach the cuffs, then take in the side seams, making sure to leave room for her to snap them closed when needed? I tried taking one in by just basting in the side seams and sleeve, but there is still too much fabric at the underarm. Would appreciate any help you can give, thank you.”
My answer:
This is a great alteration question because there are several things to think about when taking on a job like this. First, in order to do all of the things you are thinking of doing, it could cost the customer two or three times what a new scrub jacket would cost (assuming you are charging enough for your work!) If the customer is ok with that, then doing all of those things is possible, but it is difficult to get a great fit if you basically have to remake the top. The reason is that if you’ve done clothing construction, you know that each size is cut differently in the shoulders, bust, waist, hips, etc. That means that if you’re having to remake the garment, it is alot of work and it may not have the results you are looking for. However, it depends on how many sizes the customer is changing to. I have written a post that explains what I’m talking about a little more in detail. It’s called, How to take in a dress that is 5 sizes too big.
So, let’s say she doesn’t want to pay that much to alter each of these scrub tops or that you aren’t able to alter every part of the garment. You want to consider what you can do to get the most bang for her buck. In this case, I would take as much out of the side seams and sleeves as I could, not tampering with the cuffs, as I don’t think it’s necessary for the time that taking off cuffs would involve. To take in the side seams and some of the sleeves, I’d sew along the red lines as shown in the diagram below:
Yes, the scrub jackets may be still too large, but they are going to be a lot better than what she started with. It’s up to you and the customer to decide how much work is worth doing for scrub tops. Or for any garment. Maybe the fit for her is a greater priority than price and she’d like for you to take them apart and put them back together again, but I don’t think they’ll ever fit perfectly. Again, that is because you are altering every part of the garment and the garment was cut for a certain size. So, perhaps alter the sleeves and side seams of one of them and see how she likes it before you do all of them. That will give you a better handle on what your customer wants. I wrote a post entitled, How to take in the side seams and facings. It gives a complete overview on what part of the side seams and facings need adjusting.
Another thought is that scrubs (and really any garment), need to be comfortable for the person wearing them. It can be unnerving to wear clothing that just doesn’t fit or rubs against your skin all day. So, again, try one scrub jacket and see if there need to be any other modifications done on it.
And, as a rule of thumb, the most you can comfortably take in is 2 sizes. For instance, if the garment is a size 12, you can take it in to a size 8 (generally speaking) without any problems. There are always exceptions to the rule. It will be easier to take in more fabric on a garment that is not tailored and fitted. The baggier it is, the greater chance you have of taking in more fabric than 2 sizes. It all depends on the shape of the garment, the shape of the customer and how much detail work there is. You might also need to consider “special” circumstances. Does the garment have embroidery that the alteration might effect? How about darts, side pockets, yokes, plackets, buttonholes, snaps, etc.? Each item is unique and has it’s own unique challenges. Have the customer try the garment on. Many times just having them try it on gives you the answer.
What if an alteration just isn’t an option. This is where your creative juices are needed. Try to come up with solutions that are not the norm. Ones that are outside the box. Sometimes, I’ll think about a garment for a couple of days before the light bulb goes on in my head. Give yourself some time and space to think about the dilemma. I think you’ll find that you have solid alternatives to donating the garment. Donating is not a bad idea either. Another option is to repurpose the item if you can envision another garment from it.
One more thought. Many of you write and ask how to price your work. How much do you charge to alter a scrub jacket like this? How much do you charge to make every change the customer wants, or a few of them? How do I charge for a best friend or family member? Pricing is something you want to get right because sometimes you feel that if you don’t, you could lose a friendship, a customer or make a family member mad. These are questions I figured out over many years of sewing for customers and family. It was frustrating until I came up with a formula. A time tested way of pricing your work that leaves both parties happy and satisfied. So, I decided to write an e-book that explains all the different scenarios and what I did to find success in my sewing business. This will work no matter what type of hobby business you have. And, it will pay for itself on the first use!! In fact, I have written two e-books. One is entitled, Pricing Strategies for Your Sewing or Alteration Business and the other is A Jumpstart Guide To Starting Your Own Sewing Business. Both are comprehensive guides that take your business to another level to make it the most successful it can be! They are instant downloads, so you can be reaping the benefits just seconds from now!
Happy Sewing!!
The Sewing Garden 
Yes it does help, thank you very much. So glad I found your blog!!
I do alterations and have had this very problem. She lost a lot of weight and did not want to buy new. In your instance I would help her find new tops and cut out the embroidery and sew it on new tops. There are alot of places selling very inexpensive tops
I also considered cutting out the logo and then sewing it on new tops, but then frugal me said, “Why ruin perfectly good tops that she might be able to donate to Goodwill, sell on Ebay or donate to someone”. If the logos are sewn on patches then I would remove them and place them on new scrubs like you said. I then commented below that possibly making a dart or even a pleated tuck in the center of the shoulder seam (front and back) would bring up the sleeves to sit properly on the shoulders. Doing this would then make the sleeve length rise up and more than likely fit the arm length properly without having to shorten the sleeves by removing the cuffs. By my figuring I feel these tops are only about 2 sizes too big and the side seams and underarm/sleeve can be taken in enough to fit nicely. I do not believe this would be a difficult alteration or one that would be too costly. When you take in the side seam you must not just taper the sides into the hem, but pick open the hem and bring the stitch line all the way down to the bottom and trim off the excess fabric, serge edges and machine stitch the hem back in place.
Yes, the diagram shows that the side seams should be taken in all the way to the hem (not just tapered to a place above the hem) and the hem redone. 😊
I have jackets like this that fit through the hip, but the sleeves, shoulders, and bust are very baggy. I was thinking of tapering the side seam under the arm with my serger and adding darts to the back. Do you think this would work?
Hi Jen, This is a great question! I would love to see a photo of the garment if possible. I have an answer all ready for you, but I’d love to see the garment first. I’d also like for you to turn the jacket inside out and take a photo of the armpit area where the sleeve seam intersects the side seam. Once I have those pictures, I can answer with alot more confidence. My email address is: TheSewingGarden@gmail.com. Thanks!
I do alterations and I think the suggestions are the way to go. Could it be possible to take some darts or a tuck on the front and back of the shoulder seam to bring the raise the sleeve so it sits properly?
Yes you could.
I like your suggestions. It is always a fine line when a large amount needs to be altered, especially on a garmen that is not expensive to start with.
I agree with just taking in the sides seams and sleeves. Most of the time that’s all they want done…their item just made smaller. If money is not problem then I’ll do a more in-depth alteration, but that is usually not the case. Hope it all goes well!
I also do alterations and have had this scenario numerous times. When a customer is willing to pay for it, I take off the sleeves and reset at the correct shoulder distance. Then I take in the sides and down the sleeve length, and usually must shorten the sleeves and jacket/shirt length.
At some point (like when they’ve lost 100 pounds), it just doesn’t work to take it in because all proper proportions are lost. That’s when I tell them to buy new. 🙂
How about a straight seam right up the middle of the back. May need to take some out of the underarms too. Quick, easy, cheap & it usually works!
I vote remove the logo to sew onto new tops…. MUCH cheaper. I will also add this FACT….. MANY women who LOSE weight.. GAIN IT BACK within ONE YEAR..PLUS MORE POUNDAGE 😦 These tops might fit her PERFECTLY in a year or two 😦 Sad but TRUE 😦 MY labor charge would be approximately $60-$90 to do these alterations….If there is a seamstress out there who is still charging $10 an hour for her labor..we must chat 😦